Soluciones y herramientas para problemas que peudan sugir.
QUESTION: For the actual stairs, we will be recommending they fully adhere the product. Because each stair will be glued down, we will recommend the overlap lock-down method so it visually looks the same as the top stair nose coming off the kitchen floor. What I don’t understand is why you need to use scrap material at the front edge of steps. If I glue the flooring down, it is already locked in place. Why can’t I just extend the flooring to the front edge of the stair and glue the stair nose to it? Your diagram shows the use of scrap material and an expansion gap – but if the average stair is 9” deep and 36” wide and the material is glued down, the expansion gap and scrap seems unnecessary.
The scrap piece is only needed for the floating option (page 3) , our shims are used for the flush lock-down (page 5-9) your scenario above is the "overlap" lock-down (page 2) . You are correct in your scenario, giving a uniform visual, by having all VEX overlap. The gap indicated on the pages 5-9 for flush lock-down just is a gap to accommodate various different tongue and groove systems, but not to facilitate expansion as the planks are glued as well.
QUESTION: You mention that shims are only for the flush mount lock down installations and installers use scraps of material for use as shims for floating installations. Can an installer use the shim in place of scrap material if they want for floating installations? Our material is 7.5mm thick and it won’t score and snap well, especially a 1” strip along the 5’ edge of the board. If they don’t have the correct saw on the job, they might see the use of shims as a time saver rather than dealing with cutting scrap material down.
The shims, although called e.g. VT-VEX-Shim-8, is only 6 mm thick, to make it suitable for 8 mm floors, (your 7.5 mm including) as a flush mount. The shim needed to work for a floating overlap needs to match the flooring thickness, therefore a strip of the actual floors works best. In your case, our VT-VEX-Shim-8 would cause the molding to sit at an angle, causing an undesirable sight, as well as stress on the glue bond that will cause the molding to eventually loosen form the base, especially as the floor expands and contracts.
In the case where underlayments are involved for laminates, installers would use additional shimming, to make up the difference for the underlayment used. We would unfortunately not be able to offer an array of shims to work for all installation complexities that may arise in the field. The floors already have almost infinite thicknesses and the varies underlayments would amplify this by a magnitude.
QUESTION: Your instructions all show the subfloor or the stair tread stopping at the riser, but some floors have material that extends past the riser about an inch. If that subfloor material or stair tread is only ¾” thick, most nail and screws will extend through the ¾” material and using small enough screws or nails might not provide much hold for the scrap material. Do you recommend using construction adhesive to attach the scrap material in this instance?
If you have a tread protruding the step, the VEX will cover for most flooring thicknesses, depending on the tread thickness, 3/4" to 1". We always recommend to glue all shims in addition to screws, nails staples, the instructions should point this out accordingly. Especially on thinner floors, and vinyl is the glue the best option, as with flexible and/or thin materials the shim deflect under the point load of a screw or nail, causing eventually the molding to sit up higher then the shim thickness would suggest, as the fasteners caused waves.
If screws are used on thicker floors, we recommend to pre-drill into the tread, to not have it break off at the edge. Needless to say the screw should not exceed overall assembly thickness.
QUESTION: I have thoroughly studied your instructions for slim trim on carpet. My question is whether you can assist with any instructions for installing on existing carpet install where the carpet transition is already installed with a tack strip (where the "carpet tap down trim" would be in your instructions). Can we install either with it floating on top of the carpet using the dowel installation? Or is there a glue method to the carpet (over the current wood tack strip + carpet)? Or other ideas/thoughts?
Our slimtrim can not be installed over a tackle strip carpet installation, as the cushioning in the carpet over the tackle strip will cause the SLT installation to come loose over time, and will result in callbacks.
The only option would be to refinish the carpet edge installation by removing the tackle strip, and replacing it with a tab down. If this is not possible/desired, we can recommend depending on the thickness of the Vinyl, to use an EndCap instead, which is available in MAF colors at qty of 1.
The EC will work with Versatrack on LVT/Vinyl/WPC thicknesses of 6.35 mm (1/4") and greater, and without track as a glue down/nail down option without track on thicknesses of 4 mm (3/16") or greater.
QUESTION: I need your expertise with respect to installing your Versa Edge Stair Molding for the Modin Fogwood product. Here is a link.
http://www.flooret.com/fogwood/. One of the owners of Flooret (Modin) ordered a VersaEdge to be sent to me on an expedited basis today.
Attached is a photo of my stairs that I want to replace with Modin LVP Fogwood. The stairs are currently hand scraped Tigerwood with a:
I am trying to determine my options on installing Modin Fogwood with your Versa Edge stair molding.
Which of the following are the options:
I'm also concerned about OPEN corners. What trim do you use, and how do you make it look nice?
1) Flush installation on a 5 mm LVT can be accomplished by means of a 3mm shim, our Versa-Shim. There still might be a very slight height difference, less then 1 mm(1/32"), and it is up to customer preference to install if this way or not. We recommend a small mockup test on a piece of plywood, to show the customer the option. Please refer to the attached instructions for ''"Flushmount"'' options and procedure, we will amend the 5mm flush option mentioned above.
2) Regarding the open corners, this again is a customer/installer preference. Our molding can be mitered to a perfect 90 degree outside corner , however being a relatively thin extruded shape, if the miter is not perfectly cut and/or installed and glued in position, there is a chance of the miter being slightly open, and therefore creating a potential cutting edge. There is no possibility of 'rounding' the corner as this will expose the underlying aluminum core. We therefore recommend to again create a mock sample, with the shim underneath, and evaluate the appearance/practicability of this method, and advise the customer of the options at hand. The miter is best performed with a new 60 teeth or higher ATB (alternate bevel) blade, or fine carbide tipped woodworking blade for finished cuts. To achieve true miter, we recommend to lay the Versaedge Extra Tall on top of a 2 x 4 when
mitering, so it does no sit at an angle. Please make sure to wear appropriate safety goggles and PPE when handling aluminum, due to the very fine and hard particles!
3) We can not speak to the recommendation of the flooring manufacturer regarding the preferred subfloor choices, but it appears natural to not disturb the existing foundation/subfloor if it is sound and solid. In case there are squeaky noises or movements in the planks or nosing, we do not recommend to proceed with the installation until that has been remedied.
If the existing tread and bull nose are structurally sound, and not loose/squeaky in any way, it is best to keep them in place, and install the Nosing over the existing tread. It is imperative to use ample of high quality construction adhesive to glue the nosing to the existing bull nose, especially as the existing nose is rounded at the top, creating a small gap. This will ensure a solid and strong formation of the new Nosing. One has to make sure to slide the nosing all the way back to met the existing bull nose, to avoid any unsupported areas in the front of the nosing.
Please refer to the general instructions on the VEX.
QUESTION: The floors were recently covered with 1' 1-2/2" of gypcrete. How do you recommend we attach your transitions? I don't know if a standard plastic anchor is sufficient? Your thoughts?
Gypcrete is a mainly acoustic concrete barrier for apartment complexes. We do not recommend penetrating the gypcrete with dowels/screws, as due to the fragility of the thin concrete, it could weaken it enough to crack, especially as they are all in one row, creating like a designated crack line. In addition the Gypcrete does not have enough screw holding strength.
Another probably not desired alternative is having a floating plywood layer installed, on top of which the floor and the moldings would be installed. This might not be desired, and causes addtl. costs.
We would recommend glue down only. Depending on adhesive recommendations that are give from the gypcrete manufacturer, sealers might need to be applied to make it possible to properly bond the adhesive to the gritty and dusty surface.
It would be best for them to contact the gypcrete manufacturer for a list of suitable adhesive partners, and we can do bonding tests of these adhesives to our SLT and SCAP.
QUESTION: I am interested in how to create angles in the versatrack so that the angle stays tight in the track, ie….22.5 degree and 45 degree angles
You would need to install the tracks first at the desired angle, then measuring the achieved angle, and adjusting the miter saw accordingly, and cutting the matching angle on the trim. The moldings should not be cut to final length right away, so the angle can be adjusted with minor recuts. The trueness of said miter can be verified by laying the cut trim properly into the track without pressing it in all the way. You can determine the proper alignment by slightly rocking the trim back and forth inside the track, confirming proper lineup.
Alternatively, in case extra trim is available, cut two 4"-6" long pieces of trim, cut the miter and you can press them even all the way in the track and readjust the miter cut until satisfactory result has been achieved, then apply the same miter settings to the trim being used for the final assembly.
In case the track gets slightly bent out due to the repeated pressing in during fitment, you can realign the track and push its leg back into position with a pair of adjustable pliers or similar tool.
If you have any questions that you don't see answered on this page, please email:
The Manufacturer is not Responsible for the Damage or Claims resulting from faulty or incorrect installation of its Products or use of its Products for unintended Purpose, nor shall the Manufacturer be responsible for the proper use of its Products. The Manufacturer gives no Warranty, Express or Implied, as to description, quality, merchantability, fitness, for any particular purpose, productiveness or any other matter with respect to its Product unless specifically and expressly set forth by the Manufacturer in writing to the purchaser thereof.